Friday, June 22

La Reconquista

La Reconquista lasted almost 800 years. It was a long process by which the Catholics conquered the Iberian Peninsula from the Muslim and Moorish of Al-Andalus. The Moors had their greatest influence in the cities of Cordoba, Sevilla and Granada. The Alhambra and Generalife we toured in Granada were breathtaking. The architectural magnificence here is overwhelming. I sat in the garden thinking of my former employer and agreeing with his opinion “This was a creative civilization.”

The cities of Cordoba, Sevilla and Granada were highly influenced by the Moors. Evidence of the transitioning between the Moors and Christian is seen in the architectural design of churches. The Christians chose not to destroy such splendid works of art. They modified buildings to reflect a church instead of a mosque. Queen Isabella I and Ferdinand II were known as the Catholic Monarchs. Queen Isabella is a woman I greatly admire. She laid the foundation for the political unification of Spain. Together they oversaw the final stages of the Reconquista of the Iberian Peninsula. Granada was the last stronghold for the Moors. The same year that Spain took control of the peninsula Queen Isabela authorized the expedition of Christopher Colombus. He became the first European to reach the New World.

I am currently sitting in an internet cafe across the street from the cathedral where apparently part of Christopher Colombus´s remains are. DNA tests have been done to confirm that was him. Although there was some debate about his remains also being in Santo Domingo. The remains here in Seville were brought from Havana, Cuba in 1902.

It is intresting to think what the world would be like had the Christians not taken over the Iberian Peninsula. Those of us in San Antonio may have been influence by a different religion.

Thursday, June 21

Goya - Prado Musuem

Our visit to the Prado museum was breathtaking. I stood in front of artworks created by Goya, Velasquez and Rubens just to name a few. Their interpretation of stories I already knew were mind boggling. The story of the Virgin Mary visiting her cousin Elizabeth is a great example. I had always envisioned two young pregnant mothers. One of the artists depicts Elizabeth as an elderly woman. Knowing the story I recognized the facts shown. Yes, Elizabeth was much older.

Standing in front of Goya´s The Third of May 1808: The Execution of the Defenders of Madrid gave me goosebumps. His ability to capture so much emotion using oil on canvas was incredible. Both the darkness and composure of the subjects create such drama. The men about to be shot express so many emotions. The men with both hands at their face hide the feeling they would rather not have. The eyebrows on the man with both hands upraised are like two question marks of the situation. We do not see any facial expressions from the soldiers only their backs. Perhaps Goya did not want us to see a soldier but rather a killing machine.

Goya painted many members of the Spanish royal family, including Charles IV and Ferdinand. His work ranged from festive tapestry to cartoons to scenes of war and corpes. This evolution reflects the dark change in his later years. Near the end of his life, he became reclusive and produced frightening and obscure paintings of insanity, madness, and fantasy. His contributions represent a beginning to the expressionist movement.

Barcelona- Gaudi Creations

You have to experience it! We toured two of the sights created by the artist Antoni Gaudi. Gaudi was a Spanish architect famous for his unique style. He belonged to a cultural movement led by highly individualistic intellectuals. These progressive thinkers aimed at updating their culture with arts and ideas by bringing Catalan up to date with the rest of Europe.

This is an experience I want to share with my husband Ric. Setting my eyes on this church was like peeking into heaven. The scaffolds seem to disappear as I stood in awe of this master piece. La Sagrada Familia is a Catholic church currently under construction. Gaudi worked on this for project for over forty years. He died before its completion. In the twentieth century some of the most talented artists have made a contribution to this endeavour. Most recently since the 1980´s computers have been introduced into the design and construction process. Parue Gruell was originally part of an unsuccessful housing project. Only two houses were built. The park is skilfully designed to bring peace and calmness.
Violinists, guitarists and artisans can be found adding performing and showcasing their talents. I tried taking picture of a violinist. As I made my way in front of him he turned his back to me. So enamoured by the sound and sights I did not realize what he was doing. I was chasing him like a dog trying to catch his tail. Someone in my group finally tapped me on the shoulder and said “He won’t let you take his picture.” Gosh! I thought I should remember the photo rules in this country. The music adds a fine touch to such a relaxing atmosphere. Benches and large beads are found along a pathway surrounding the home. The intention was to leisurely stroll around the passage while praying the rosary.

The architectural ingenious of Gaudi is remarkable. He is considered one of Spain’s, and the world’s most best and brightest.

Wednesday, June 20

San Sebastian - Adventures in a small town

About ten of us decided to venture out into the small town of Errenteria just outside San Sebastian. The walk was a great lesson for trusting strangers and relaxing a bit, not too much, just a tiny bit.


We head out of our hotel just before ten o´clock. There was still a little light out. We stopped at a gas station and asked for directions. The clerk behind the counter pointed us in the right direction. " Across the bridge, under the tunnel and to the right" he said. Everything is always to the right. We waited hesistantly in front of the tunnel wondering if it was too long. The headlights for a car lit up the short distance. I kept thinking ´all this for a just a drink. I have four boys. I don´t need to be out here.´ Obviously I was a bit terrified.


We enterred a residential area. I heard one of the locals say "They are not from here." One of the girls with us asked a man for directions. "Down alongside the river until you get to the main plaza." Being overly cautious, I was looking at everyone we passed by. I relaxed a bit when we walked by an elderly woman. It had to be safe. It was late at night and she was out alone. We came to fork in the road and did not know which way to take. The sweet older woman stopped and asked "Do you need help getting somewhere." I felt guilty telling her I wanted a beer. She reminded me of my mother and out of respect I do not like to drink in front of my mom. "We´re looking for a bar" I heard someone say. " Ah yes this way" she said.


"This is a small town. If you want a bigger party take a bus into San Sebastian. You´ll think of me when you get there because you will have a great time." She walked us just a block short of the main plaza. "Muchas gracias" we all chimed together.


We sat and enjoyed a couple of drinks. Heading back to the hotel was really dark. We crossed the tunnel using our digitial camera LED screens to light the way. We laughed and giggled all the way both caused by the drinks and the nerves of walking in an unknown neighborhood.

When we finally made it back to the gas station we had originally stopped in I popped my head in and thanked the clerk for the directions. He seemed pleased. This was an adventure we were all proud we had taken. Thanks to Richard none of us chickened out!

Valencia- The Gypsies

Valencia is a small quiet town with a big city problem. Our stop here was a delight with only a small smudge of crudeness.

It was a warm sunny day in Valencia. A nice change from the cold wet weather we had days before. There was not a cloud in the sky, only the celestial deep blue that can bring comfort and peace. This town is known for its paella, a rice and seafood dish prepared by simmering together chicken, seafood, rice, vegetables, saffron and other seasonings. It was delicous. Kim, my roommate, Richard, my travel partner, and Gary,our tour guide, sat on the terrace enjoying a tasty serving of paella followed by a second course of fish served in an orange-flavored sauce. After lunch we headed to the cathedral where the Holy Grail is said to be displayed.

On our walk to the church, Gary cautioned us about the gypsies walking on the opposite side of the street. I saw three teenaged girls walking upstream into the crowds of people. The young girls were dressed in t-shirt and blue jeans. The gypsies had dark skin and long dark black hair. They laughed and mocked people as they passed by. When we arrived at the church, their demeanor changed. The girls shrugged their shoulders, curled up and stuck their hands out asking for money. "I need money to buy food for my child" I heard one say. I found it interesting that they did not subtly change their behavior. It was as if they had clocked in to get to work.

Needless to say, we avoided them and walked in a different direction.

Monday, June 18

Barcelona - Conversations

Striking up a conversation with a stranger is like getting into a swimming pool.

For some, it customary to walk right up to the edge, dip one or two toes, check the water and slowly immerse their foot. Others would rather stay away from water and avoid it at all costs for fear of the unknown. I, however, am comfortable running to the water and jumping right in.

In the last few days, I met people from many countries: Germany, France, Portugal and Brazil, to name a few. Initially I hesitated for fear of incorrectly pronouncing a word or phrase. I find Europe to be a place where a smile and an "Hola" are all you need to engage in a conversation.

I met a nice man named Alfonz. "Are you from Indonesia," he asked? "No" I answered. "I´m from the USA." "Yes, but where are you from?" Did he not hear me, I thought. " I am from the United States," I said. "Yes, but where is your family from?" Alfonz asked. "Oh, Mexico," I responded. "Both my parents are from Mexico." "Very nice to meet you," he said. The conversation continued for a while. I shared how I was in love with Europe. As we ended our conversation, he instructed "Beso de dos lados" a kiss on both cheeks.

At dinner the following day, I overheard a conversation that helped me analyze the one with my French friend. "I had not tried macaroni and cheese until a year ago," said a teen aged girl. "There are American foods my mom rejects. She is Asian and not willing to embrace the American cuisine." Did I hear correctly? `She is Asian.´ The girl had not said "WE are Asian." My French friend assumed most people migrate to the United States as did my parents. Overhearing this young girl reminded me, yes I was born in America, but I don´t want to forget my Hispanic culture.